Monday, December 31, 2007

Happy New Year!

2008 will mark the 6th year of the existence of Salli Vates' NY Food Page. I may plan some sort of party... details will be forthcoming!

In the meantime, my companion and I will celebrate the New Year with toshikoshi (passing year) soba. Since the Edo period, people in Japan have eaten these long, thin noodles to promote long life and prosperity.

Naturally, I'm not going to make these noodles myself. I reserved them at Soba-Ya! (If you're still scrambling around wondering what you are going to eat tonight, you have until 7 p.m. to pick up a box of fresh soba for two people, including wasabi, broth, chopped scallions and soba-boiling instructions.)

Soba-Ya: 229 East 9th St., (212) 533-6966.
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Monday, December 24, 2007

Del Posto

My companion and I both have birthdays close to Christmas, so our holiday season is extra indulgent. This year, we celebrated my special day at opulent Del Posto, the perfect place for holiday excess. Unabashedly hedonistic, it offers $120 plates of tagliarini topped with 10 oz. of shaved white truffle, chocolate souffles with hot chocolate sauce pooling on the bottom... and is there any other restaurant in Manhattan that actually serves lard with the Italian bread?

We toasted with a glass of pinot nero, relaxed to the sounds of Christmas carols as played by an excellent pianist, and set to work on the amuses bouche... spiedini, miniature zeppole and ditalini soup with a touch of cocoa (yes, cocoa!). Although the people next to us were enjoying the aforementioned tagliarini, we decided to be slightly less hedonistic, ordering a couple of pasta dishes which both had a touch of spice. The spaghetti with Dungeness crab was spiked with jalapeno, and my sheep's milk gnudi were dusted with Tellicherry pepper. The incredibly rich dumplings, served on a velvety swirl of pumpkin puree, melted in my mouth. (I think I finally found something to trump the gnocchi at Hearth.)

Next came the main courses. The portions were deceptively moderate, as there must have been a stick of butter in the cauliflower ragu underneath my seared striped bass! (The dish also sported black truffles.) My companion's three large chunks of rare pink tuna were delicately crowned with thin slices of crimson air-dried beef. The waiter brought by a little bonus of olive-oil-preserved tuna for my companion... but when he saw my expectant face, he saved some for me.

Although I had also eaten more of the Italian bread (and the beautiful little olive rolls) than I care to remember, I could not forgo dessert on a birthday. Chocolate souffle it was! (My companion finished off the panna cotta with spiced pears, meringue and red wine gelee.) Then there were tiny cookies and a box of chocolates. I think my New Year's resolution should be to go on a diet. (After tonight's visit to Quality Meats, anyway.)

Del Posto: 85 Tenth Ave., (212) 497-8090.
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Sunday, December 23, 2007

Ciao For Now

No, I'm not going on vacation (until sometime in 2008, anyway); this post refers to a really delightful East Village bakery. If you favor savory baked goods as well as sweet ones, you'll really appreciate the offerings here: potato puffs filled with goat cheese and red pepper, bacon cheddar biscuits, and "not-frittatas" with egg, Swiss, spinach, potato and caramelized onions. And of course there's something for those of you who begin the day with something sweet: polenta muffins with a lemon lavender glaze, apple turnovers, and apple oat scones glazed with maple and vanilla. There are also various sandwiches and cookies.

(By the way, if you don't want to attend a Christmas party empty-handed, ask for the special holiday cookie box - you get 30 cookies for only $20.)

Ciao For Now: 504 East 12th St., (212) 677-2616.
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Wednesday, December 19, 2007

L'Impero

Walking to L'Impero on a winter night has to be one of the most romantic experiences in NYC. You look up at the black-branched trees, ascend an old stone staircase, and find yourself in the hushed world of Tudor City. This past Sunday, the little journey increased our excitement at finally visiting this well-known Italian restaurant.

Surprisingly, once we sat down, service was a bit sketchy. (It was the weekend, people were gone for the holidays, and someone apparently injured himself in the kitchen.) However, the sommelier placated our party with a bottle of wine! (Always a simple solution.) We had no complaints with the food or value... the special Sunday four-course prix fixe is only $42.

First, we were served two kinds of thickly-sliced Italian bread and a plate of salami, chunks of Parmesan, and citrus-spiked olives. (We ended up pleading for a couple more of these plates; we were hungry!) Then came a hearty bean soup flavored with pancetta and garlicky crostini topped with a healthy helping of salt cod mashed with potatoes. For pasta, we chose the egg tortelli oozing with rich, creamy buffalo ricotta, spaghetti in a tomato-onion-pancetta sauce and the breadcrumbed cauliflower pappardelle.

The main courses, which arrived two hours after we sat down, were worth the wait! My selection was the fried haddock with a luscious caper-mayonnaise "salmoriglio" dipping sauce. Others at the table indulged in the traditional pork meatballs. We ended with chai-spiced panna cotta,a brownielike warm chocolate cake, espresso, and that romantic walk.

L'Impero: 45 Tudor City Place, (212) 599-5045. (6/15/08 NOTE: This restaurant will be closing and reopening under a different name.)

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Tuesday, December 11, 2007

Brunch at Ditch Plains

I am still thinking about the smoked mozzarella ricotta fritters at Ditch Plains. There were six of them. I picked one up and bit into the crisp and browned exterior, but was in no way prepared for the gooey deliciousness inside. A layer of light eggy batter contained an onslaught of hot melted cheese... the spicy tomato sauce on the side was a nice touch but not really necessary!

I think I scared the no-nonsense waitress with my giddiness. (I'm sure she's not reading this, but on the off chance that she is, and remembers a slightly wacky table of four this past Sunday, we really meant no harm. And we weren't drunk. We were just giddy over the prospect of the fritters.)

We also ordered clam chowder (two kinds, Manhattan and New England), fried eggs with satisfyingly greasy hash browns and a side of thickly cut bacon, and gargantuan spinach-goat cheese omelettes that were enough for two. But after all of this, I was still thinking about those smoked mozzarella ricotta fritters.

Ditch Plains: 29 Bedford St. (212) 633-0202
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Now This Is What I Call Customer Service!

I'm a great lover of convenience; this is what led me to discard my much-loved Vienna Saeco Deluxe coffee machine (and my Bialetti Mukka Express, which had an unfortunate habit of leaking coffee all over the stovetop) in favor of the Nespresso D290, one of the "pod" machines. (I know that coffee purists will probably look askance at me for this!)

Anyway, I came home yesterday and there was an unexpected package from Nespresso waiting for me. I know it's the holiday season, but the only person I know who would send me a Nespresso package would be my mother, and she apparently didn't send it. So, I opened the box and saw this message: "We greatly appreciate your loyalty to Nespresso. To express our gratitude, we are pleased to offer you a selection of dark and milk chocolate squares."

The airline industry could sure learn something from Nespresso!
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Thursday, December 06, 2007

Holiday Shopping 2007

Frightened away by the hordes, I have resorted to online shopping this year. And as you can probably imagine, most of the gifts are food-related!

To start, I sent my mother a gingerbread house from Cookie Outlet, which offers small, medium, large, and even blue-iced Chanukah versions. (Cookie Outlet also sends Junior's cheesecakes to nostalgic ex-New Yorkers around the country.)

Then, I looked at the Meduri World Delights Website. This Oregon-based company specializes in dried fruits which have been prepared in such a way as to maintain most of their moisture. But the prospect of dried fruit wasn't quite decadent enough, so I ordered a box of chocolate-and-fruit truffle delights for my companion. (OK, I'll make an admission. I have an awful habit of deciding that we'll open just one present prematurely. And this year, it happened to be this box of chocolate-and-fruit truffles. So I can tell you that the white chocolate strawberry tastes just like strawberry shortcake.) If you want to support a local fruit vendor instead, you can visit Manhattan Fruitier, which also sells some adorable chocolate penguins.

I've been extolling the virtues of my Nespresso Aeroccino to anyone who will listen, so this item went on my gift list too. Basically, I'm one of those people who can't make decent cappuccino foam, no matter how hard I try. I've done everything they've told me; I've held the nozzle in the bottom of the cup, the top of the cup, I've chilled the milk, I've used skim milk, and still, my foam is the consistency of, well, hot milk. Enter this amazing, foolproof machine: one simple touch of a button and my foam was the envy of any barista!

Naturally, this handy item is selling out (Nespresso is back-ordered till late December) but as of this writing, er, typing, it's still available at Williams-Sonoma. And if you're looking for coffee to enclose with this gift, I'm excited to inform you that you can now order Spanish sugar-roasted Torrefacto coffee at Tienda.com. (After my last visit to Spain, which was eons ago, I craved this coffee and could find it nowhere online.)

Right now, I'm not dreaming of a white Christmas, but rather a cup of Torrefacto coffee topped with perfect Aeroccino-ed foam, accompanied by a hefty helping of the peach cobbler in Alice Waters' The Art Of Simple Food, which also makes an excellent gift.
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